Coupled with a stupefying look, a crew member was asked “you’re doing that by choice?” I don’t know what answer he returned, but I’m sure the dismay would have made me chuckle on the inside. That pandemonium of preparation last week gave way to a bone-chilling, wind-whipping and Jameson-imbibing peregrination. With an unprecedented group of ten dudes, a cavalcade of chaos emblazoned Sawbill Lake in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW). From Friday to Sunday we ate, drank, chopped wood, conversed, peed (two dudes even pooped) and slept under Old Man Winter’s frosty breath at a temperature of -35 degrees. Fuck, that was cold. The common question is “why”. I’m no philosopher and I’m not going to provide some lame existential meaning behind our sojourn, but I’ll tell you this. I’d much rather hear the question “can I come?” I like adventure and I love sharing them. And did I mention the man-soup? Because it all starts with man-soup.
My crew of five dudes, including Rumination Dave, arrived in Duluth, MN on Thursday early evening, just in time to catch a glimpse of Lake Superior in the daylight. After cranking out a menu for the weekend (which included four logs of summer sausage) over a beer at Sir Ben’s, we headed back to our hotel for the outdoor, rooftop, heated pool, jokingly referred to as man-soup.

Man-soup!
After a good hour of man-soup and chatting up a couple in town for a birthday, we headed to the Brewhouse for some good food and freshly brewed beers. The Brewhouse serves some delicious ales, and it is a place I used to frequent for a couple years when I lived in Duluth. I was pleased to see their brewing horizons expand, which now included a framboise which they intelligently didn’t ruin by back-sweetening it. It was still only ok; they probably could use some fine-tuning for those delicate brews. Our beers were enjoyed by the music of the ‘brothers,’ a duo whose name escapes me, but the drummer had long hair and wild beard, reminiscent of Animal from Muppets.

Animal and his brother bringing the tunage
Here we met my buddy Greg, who would turn out to be a game-changer for future winter expeditions, and his group of dudes. They quickly had a boot of booze passing between us and it was a good sign that our crews were going to get along. To get back to our hotel, we walked the Lakefront trail; one of my favorites at night as the lift-bridge stands illuminated against the darkness of night. So near the water, I took the opportunity to ritualistically dip my feet in Lake Superior-something I do with every visit to Duluth.

Duluth's iconic liftbridge

Burr...
Friday morning was met by a nagging hangover and a deep regret for eating jalapeños on my burger the night before. I feel responsible for our late departure to our entry point into the BWCAW, which at this point still had yet to be decided and was settled by a game of paper-rock-scissors. Our destination: Sawbill Lake. We met Greg’s group, double checked our gear a drove about 2 hours north to our entry point. Once at Sawbill, we packed our sleds, hooked them to our body, strapped on our snowshoes and made our way 2.5 miles due north on the frozen lake.

A cavalcade of chaos
The wind was at our faces and it stung; immediately I had my balaclava wrapped around my face. Our goal was to reach the northern most tip of the lake, but as night was approaching we decided to stop short and make a home. We chose a little cove which protected us from the biting wind. First order of business: build a quinzhee-basically a hollowed out mound of snow-for shelter. We also needed to gather wood for a fire, which needed sawing and splitting in order get a proper fire going. It had never dawned on me to do this; years past we had just gathered smaller pieces of wood for a mediocre fire. This method blew mind my mind and will be adopted for future trips.

Our village
Aside from getting firewood and finishing our quinzhees, the night was cheerful as the whiskey began to flow. Greg being the guru he is, used is walkie to tune into the NOAA forecast for the night. -9 degrees and -35 degrees with windchill. With the fire blazing before us and whiskey warming our insides, we had nothing to worry about and simply laughed off the cold weather. The night was clear, the stars shined bright and we were in luck to have been illuminated by the moon. We boiled some water and filled our nalgenes which went into our sleeping bags with us. Fortunately, those in my quinzhee slept well thanks to Reno: his gentle and rhythmic snoring lulled us to sleep.

Fire and ice you come on like a flame, fire and ice then you turn a cold shoulder!

Crappy photo of the moon

Let me give you a tour...
Mornings are slow when the temperatures are sub zero, and Saturday morning was no exception. Indolent, we creeped out of our sleeping bags. The sun was shining bright, but it brought no warmth. We made a breakfast of hot oatmeal and Starbucks Via. I think I eat better when camping than I do at my own house. Another awesome trick I learned is to leave the camping stoves and propane at home. Our fuel was freezing, stoves were not lighting and our frustration grew as we watched Greg started fires and placed a giant pot of water off to the side and brought it to a boil. Almost too easy.

You can't beat this view

Fuel sucks, fire rocks!
Saturday was mostly spend exploring parts of the lake. We headed north on Sawbill. If you’re unfamiliar with the BWCAW, the lakes all vary in size and shape, and none are symmetrical. They all twist and wind, and have little coves, bays, nooks and crannies. The space between lakes are occupied by dense forest, marsh or small creeks that provide endless opportunities to poke around. We had an afternoon lunch of copious summer sausage and cheese and inexplicably the conversation turned to taints, undercarriages, guchees and perineum. We can thank Joe for adding some wisdom to the world: “Life begins when the taint fuses.” Take that Mississippi!

Nearly two logs of summr sausage was consumed at this spot. Conversation was ripe.

Reproductive Biology 101: "Life begins where the taint fuses."
We headed north on Sawbill and made our way to a marshy area and followed a creek to Handle lake. There was a little more topography here and we took the chance putz around some cliffs then decided to turn back towards camp in order to beat sunset. I estimate our hike was around 6-7 miles in all that day. Back at camp, some decided to warm up, others prepared firewood, some relaxed with some pulls from the bottle, and one determined, but ultimately unsuccessful, soul went ice fishing.

A cavalcade of chaos continued

One brave dude pooping...oh wait, just ice fishing

Happy hour: it's like a blanket on the inside!
The final night was more of the same: a raging fire, whiskey consumption, conversation, bright stars and another good night of rest, save for the fact that Reno’s snoring was louder and increasingly aperiodic. Sleeping is surprisingly warm at night. We all slept inside a fleece liner, inside a 20 degree bag, inside of a 0 degree bag. Two of us had bivy sacs. This sleeping system is so warm I was down to my long johns while temperatures remained subzero. In fact, several dudes slept under the stars with no shelter to speak of. They all decided to sleep in a row, and seeing them all asleep the next morning is like stumbling onto a bunch of body bags.

Mummy...bag
Us Chicago folks had a long drive ahead of us so we got to an early start, but not without first having some fun with our snowy shelters. We all took opportunities to pose with them before crushing them under our might. Not only was this super fun, but served to prevent others from finding our shelters-which would have been structurally weak at that point-and using them with the risk of a collapse.

Damn good looking group of dudes

Mr Miyagi!

Yoga is for sissies

Ninja Guiden!

Dhalism foot drill!
Just as we were exiting the lake, we saw our first and only other person brave dumb enough to be in the BWCAW-a young lady drilling a hole in the ice for water. Dave and Greg immediately found the love of their life. I only wish the drama between the two would have unfolded then and there, but we have time-lines and their dreams were soon crushed.
All said and done, camping in -35 degree is nowhere near as cold as it sounds as long as you’re prepared with the proper clothing and know-how to stay warm (Jameson anybody?). I learned a few lessons for cooking: trade in the stove and fuel for fire; and a lesson for fires: bring a bow saw and an ax-fires will be much more gratifying. I’m already looking forward to next year’s trip!